0:00:04.539,0:00:07.931
So black hair has always been [br]an essential component of black culture.
0:00:07.931,0:00:10.802
Black hair requires upkeep in order [br]for it to grow and remain healthy,
0:00:10.802,0:00:12.832
so black women [br]have always done their hair.
0:00:12.832,0:00:17.265
It's just a part of our identity: [br]braids, locs, twists and cornrows, etc.
0:00:17.265,0:00:18.850
Cornrows are a really functional way
0:00:18.850,0:00:23.541
of keeping black textured hair unknotted[br]and neat, but like with style.
0:00:23.541,0:00:27.875
So you can see why hair is such a big part [br]of hip hop and rap culture.
0:00:27.875,0:00:31.132
These are styles of music which [br]African American communities created
0:00:31.132,0:00:33.865
in order to affirm our identities [br]and our voices.
0:00:33.865,0:00:37.374
In the early 2000's you saw [br]many R&B stars wearing cornrows:
0:00:37.374,0:00:40.850
Alicia Keys, Beyonce, R. Kelly [br]and many more.
0:00:40.850,0:00:44.538
As hip hop became more and more popular [br]and integrated into pop culture,
0:00:44.538,0:00:46.027
so did Black culture.
0:00:46.027,0:00:50.352
Eminem's album went four times platinum and he [br]achieved immense success in the hip hop world.
0:00:50.352,0:00:52.542
Black culture had become popular.
0:00:52.542,0:00:55.961
As the early 2000's turned into 2010's, [br]white people began to wear
0:00:55.961,0:00:58.536
clothing and accessories associated with hip hop,
0:00:58.536,0:01:03.239
more and more celebrities could be seen [br]wearing cornrows and braids and even grills.
0:01:03.239,0:01:06.513
So by 2013, the fashion world [br]had adopted cornrows as well.
0:01:06.513,0:01:09.544
Cornrows and braids were seen [br]on high fashion runways,
0:01:09.544,0:01:12.206
for brands like Marchesa [br]and Alexander McQueen,
0:01:12.206,0:01:16.997
and magazines had editorial campaigns [br]featuring cornrows as a new urban hairstyle.
0:01:16.997,0:01:21.073
Riff Raff came on to the scene, [br]a suburban white middle class man
0:01:21.073,0:01:25.578
who almost ironically took on a Black-set [br]and wore braids and gold teeth.
0:01:25.578,0:01:29.373
And then James Franco took inspiration from [br]Riff Raff for his role as an alien in Spring Breakers.
0:01:29.373,0:01:34.211
Pop stars and icons adopted Black culture [br]as a way of being edgy and gaining attention.
0:01:34.211,0:01:38.918
In 2013, Miley Cyrus twerks [br]and uses Black women as props,
0:01:38.918,0:01:42.209
and in 2014, in one of her videos called [br]This is How We Do,
0:01:42.209,0:01:47.301
Katy Perry uses ebonics and hand gestures, [br]eats watermelons while wearing cornrows
0:01:47.301,0:01:51.304
before cutting inexplicably [br]to a picture of Aretha Franklin.
0:01:55.270,0:02:01.560
Soooo... as you can see [br]cultural appropriation was rampant.
0:02:03.479,0:02:07.959
Not only were white people becoming rappers [br]but they were excelling in the world of hip hop.
0:02:07.959,0:02:09.865
Macklemore and Ryan Lewis' song Thrift Shop
0:02:09.865,0:02:13.335
garnered a number one spot [br]on Billboard's year end chart for 2013,
0:02:13.335,0:02:16.275
and then Iggy Azalea's song Fancy [br]reached number one the following year.
0:02:16.275,0:02:19.525
And in May 2014, Forbes released an article titled
0:02:19.525,0:02:24.675
"Hip Hop's unlikely new star, [br]a white blonde Australian woman."
0:02:26.236,0:02:31.153
But at the same time, police brutality [br]against Black people came to the forefront.
0:02:31.153,0:02:33.407
In an incredible movement [br]ignited by the murders of
0:02:33.407,0:02:36.986
Trayvon Martin, Michael Brown, Tamir Rice, [br]Eric Graner and many others,
0:02:36.986,0:02:41.814
people began to protest institutionalized racism [br]by marching and by using social media.
0:02:41.814,0:02:47.897
Celebrities spread awareness and [br]shared condolences, or at least some did,
0:02:47.897,0:02:52.118
as Azealia Banks, a Black female rapper,[br]pointed out.
0:02:52.118,0:02:54.200
As Azealia Banks observed in her tweets,
0:02:54.200,0:02:58.303
white musicians who partook in hip hop culture [br]and adopted Blackness
0:02:58.303,0:02:59.799
-Iggy Azalea in particular-
0:02:59.799,0:03:03.570
failed to speak on the racism [br]that comes along with Black identity.
0:03:03.570,0:03:08.425
Banks & Azalia feuded on Twitter until Banks [br]participated interview on New Yorks Hot 97.
0:03:08.425,0:03:09.985
[Azealia Amanda Banks] I have a problem
0:03:09.985,0:03:12.872
when youre trying to like say that it's hip hop,
0:03:12.872,0:03:15.767
and youre trying to like put it [br]like up against black culture.
0:03:15.767,0:03:18.723
It's like cultural smudging, is what I see.
0:03:18.723,0:03:20.184
All it says to white kids is like,
0:03:20.184,0:03:23.349
'Oh yeah, you're great, you're amazing, [br]you can do whatever you put your mind to.'
0:03:23.349,0:03:24.654
And it says to black kids,
0:03:24.654,0:03:28.230
'You don't have shit, you don't own shit, [br]not even shit you've created for yourself.'
0:03:28.230,0:03:29.539
And it makes me upset."
0:03:29.539,0:03:33.150
[Amandla Stenberg] That itself is what is so [br]complicated when it comes to Black culture.
0:03:33.150,0:03:35.751
I mean the line between cultural [br]appropriation and cultural exchange
0:03:35.751,0:03:37.707
is always going to be blurred, [br]but here is the thing:
0:03:37.707,0:03:42.820
Appropriation occurs when a style leads [br]to racist generalizations or stereotypes
0:03:42.820,0:03:44.218
where it originated
0:03:44.218,0:03:50.171
but is deemed as high fashion, cool or funny [br]when the privileged take it for themselves.
0:03:50.171,0:03:51.752
Appropriation occurs when the appropriator
0:03:51.752,0:03:55.331
is not aware of the deep significance [br]of the culture they are partaking in.
0:03:55.331,0:03:58.350
Hip hop stems from a black struggle, [br]it stems from jazz and blues,
0:03:58.350,0:04:03.418
styles of music which African-Americans created [br]to retain humanity in the face of adversity,
0:04:03.418,0:04:07.709
which itself stems from songs song used [br]during slavery to communicate and survive.
0:04:07.709,0:04:13.129
On a smaller scale but in a similar vein, [br]braids and cornrows are not merely stylistic.
0:04:13.129,0:04:16.217
Theyre necessary in order [br]to keep black hair neat.
0:04:16.217,0:04:21.530
So Ive been seeing this question a lot on [br]social media and I think it's really relevant:
0:04:21.530,0:04:22.446
what would America be like
0:04:22.446,0:04:25.265
if we loved black people [br]as much as we love black culture?