0:00:04.539,0:00:07.931 So black hair has always been [br]an essential component of black culture. 0:00:07.931,0:00:10.802 Black hair requires upkeep in order [br]for it to grow and remain healthy, 0:00:10.802,0:00:12.832 so black women [br]have always done their hair. 0:00:12.832,0:00:17.265 It's just a part of our identity: [br]braids, locs, twists and cornrows, etc. 0:00:17.265,0:00:18.850 Cornrows are a really functional way 0:00:18.850,0:00:23.541 of keeping black textured hair unknotted[br]and neat, but like with style. 0:00:23.541,0:00:27.875 So you can see why hair is such a big part [br]of hip hop and rap culture. 0:00:27.875,0:00:31.132 These are styles of music which [br]African American communities created 0:00:31.132,0:00:33.865 in order to affirm our identities [br]and our voices. 0:00:33.865,0:00:37.374 In the early 2000's you saw [br]many R&B stars wearing cornrows: 0:00:37.374,0:00:40.850 Alicia Keys, Beyonce, R. Kelly [br]and many more. 0:00:40.850,0:00:44.538 As hip hop became more and more popular [br]and integrated into pop culture, 0:00:44.538,0:00:46.027 so did Black culture. 0:00:46.027,0:00:50.352 Eminem's album went four times platinum and he [br]achieved immense success in the hip hop world. 0:00:50.352,0:00:52.542 Black culture had become popular. 0:00:52.542,0:00:55.961 As the early 2000's turned into 2010's, [br]white people began to wear 0:00:55.961,0:00:58.536 clothing and accessories associated with hip hop, 0:00:58.536,0:01:03.239 more and more celebrities could be seen [br]wearing cornrows and braids and even grills. 0:01:03.239,0:01:06.513 So by 2013, the fashion world [br]had adopted cornrows as well. 0:01:06.513,0:01:09.544 Cornrows and braids were seen [br]on high fashion runways, 0:01:09.544,0:01:12.206 for brands like Marchesa [br]and Alexander McQueen, 0:01:12.206,0:01:16.997 and magazines had editorial campaigns [br]featuring cornrows as a new urban hairstyle. 0:01:16.997,0:01:21.073 Riff Raff came on to the scene, [br]a suburban white middle class man 0:01:21.073,0:01:25.578 who almost ironically took on a Black-set [br]and wore braids and gold teeth. 0:01:25.578,0:01:29.373 And then James Franco took inspiration from [br]Riff Raff for his role as an alien in Spring Breakers. 0:01:29.373,0:01:34.211 Pop stars and icons adopted Black culture [br]as a way of being edgy and gaining attention. 0:01:34.211,0:01:38.918 In 2013, Miley Cyrus twerks [br]and uses Black women as props, 0:01:38.918,0:01:42.209 and in 2014, in one of her videos called [br]This is How We Do, 0:01:42.209,0:01:47.301 Katy Perry uses ebonics and hand gestures, [br]eats watermelons while wearing cornrows 0:01:47.301,0:01:51.304 before cutting inexplicably [br]to a picture of Aretha Franklin. 0:01:55.270,0:02:01.560 Soooo... as you can see [br]cultural appropriation was rampant. 0:02:03.479,0:02:07.959 Not only were white people becoming rappers [br]but they were excelling in the world of hip hop. 0:02:07.959,0:02:09.865 Macklemore and Ryan Lewis' song Thrift Shop 0:02:09.865,0:02:13.335 garnered a number one spot [br]on Billboard's year end chart for 2013, 0:02:13.335,0:02:16.275 and then Iggy Azalea's song Fancy [br]reached number one the following year. 0:02:16.275,0:02:19.525 And in May 2014, Forbes released an article titled 0:02:19.525,0:02:24.675 "Hip Hop's unlikely new star, [br]a white blonde Australian woman." 0:02:26.236,0:02:31.153 But at the same time, police brutality [br]against Black people came to the forefront. 0:02:31.153,0:02:33.407 In an incredible movement [br]ignited by the murders of 0:02:33.407,0:02:36.986 Trayvon Martin, Michael Brown, Tamir Rice, [br]Eric Graner and many others, 0:02:36.986,0:02:41.814 people began to protest institutionalized racism [br]by marching and by using social media. 0:02:41.814,0:02:47.897 Celebrities spread awareness and [br]shared condolences, or at least some did, 0:02:47.897,0:02:52.118 as Azealia Banks, a Black female rapper,[br]pointed out. 0:02:52.118,0:02:54.200 As Azealia Banks observed in her tweets, 0:02:54.200,0:02:58.303 white musicians who partook in hip hop culture [br]and adopted Blackness 0:02:58.303,0:02:59.799 -Iggy Azalea in particular- 0:02:59.799,0:03:03.570 failed to speak on the racism [br]that comes along with Black identity. 0:03:03.570,0:03:08.425 Banks & Azalia feuded on Twitter until Banks [br]participated interview on New Yorks Hot 97. 0:03:08.425,0:03:09.985 [Azealia Amanda Banks] I have a problem 0:03:09.985,0:03:12.872 when youre trying to like say that it's hip hop, 0:03:12.872,0:03:15.767 and youre trying to like put it [br]like up against black culture. 0:03:15.767,0:03:18.723 It's like cultural smudging, is what I see. 0:03:18.723,0:03:20.184 All it says to white kids is like, 0:03:20.184,0:03:23.349 'Oh yeah, you're great, you're amazing, [br]you can do whatever you put your mind to.' 0:03:23.349,0:03:24.654 And it says to black kids, 0:03:24.654,0:03:28.230 'You don't have shit, you don't own shit, [br]not even shit you've created for yourself.' 0:03:28.230,0:03:29.539 And it makes me upset." 0:03:29.539,0:03:33.150 [Amandla Stenberg] That itself is what is so [br]complicated when it comes to Black culture. 0:03:33.150,0:03:35.751 I mean the line between cultural [br]appropriation and cultural exchange 0:03:35.751,0:03:37.707 is always going to be blurred, [br]but here is the thing: 0:03:37.707,0:03:42.820 Appropriation occurs when a style leads [br]to racist generalizations or stereotypes 0:03:42.820,0:03:44.218 where it originated 0:03:44.218,0:03:50.171 but is deemed as high fashion, cool or funny [br]when the privileged take it for themselves. 0:03:50.171,0:03:51.752 Appropriation occurs when the appropriator 0:03:51.752,0:03:55.331 is not aware of the deep significance [br]of the culture they are partaking in. 0:03:55.331,0:03:58.350 Hip hop stems from a black struggle, [br]it stems from jazz and blues, 0:03:58.350,0:04:03.418 styles of music which African-Americans created [br]to retain humanity in the face of adversity, 0:04:03.418,0:04:07.709 which itself stems from songs song used [br]during slavery to communicate and survive. 0:04:07.709,0:04:13.129 On a smaller scale but in a similar vein, [br]braids and cornrows are not merely stylistic. 0:04:13.129,0:04:16.217 Theyre necessary in order [br]to keep black hair neat. 0:04:16.217,0:04:21.530 So Ive been seeing this question a lot on [br]social media and I think it's really relevant: 0:04:21.530,0:04:22.446 what would America be like 0:04:22.446,0:04:25.265 if we loved black people [br]as much as we love black culture?