1 00:00:04,539 --> 00:00:07,931 So black hair has always been an essential component of black culture. 2 00:00:07,931 --> 00:00:10,802 Black hair requires upkeep in order for it to grow and remain healthy, 3 00:00:10,802 --> 00:00:12,832 so black women have always done their hair. 4 00:00:12,832 --> 00:00:17,265 It's just a part of our identity: braids, locs, twists and cornrows, etc. 5 00:00:17,265 --> 00:00:18,850 Cornrows are a really functional way 6 00:00:18,850 --> 00:00:23,541 of keeping black textured hair unknotted and neat, but like with style. 7 00:00:23,541 --> 00:00:27,875 So you can see why hair is such a big part of hip hop and rap culture. 8 00:00:27,875 --> 00:00:31,132 These are styles of music which African American communities created 9 00:00:31,132 --> 00:00:33,865 in order to affirm our identities and our voices. 10 00:00:33,865 --> 00:00:37,374 In the early 2000's you saw many R&B stars wearing cornrows: 11 00:00:37,374 --> 00:00:40,850 Alicia Keys, Beyonce, R. Kelly and many more. 12 00:00:40,850 --> 00:00:44,538 As hip hop became more and more popular and integrated into pop culture, 13 00:00:44,538 --> 00:00:46,027 so did Black culture. 14 00:00:46,027 --> 00:00:50,352 Eminem's album went four times platinum and he achieved immense success in the hip hop world. 15 00:00:50,352 --> 00:00:52,542 Black culture had become popular. 16 00:00:52,542 --> 00:00:55,961 As the early 2000's turned into 2010's, white people began to wear 17 00:00:55,961 --> 00:00:58,536 clothing and accessories associated with hip hop, 18 00:00:58,536 --> 00:01:03,239 more and more celebrities could be seen wearing cornrows and braids and even grills. 19 00:01:03,239 --> 00:01:06,513 So by 2013, the fashion world had adopted cornrows as well. 20 00:01:06,513 --> 00:01:09,544 Cornrows and braids were seen on high fashion runways, 21 00:01:09,544 --> 00:01:12,206 for brands like Marchesa and Alexander McQueen, 22 00:01:12,206 --> 00:01:16,997 and magazines had editorial campaigns featuring cornrows as a new urban hairstyle. 23 00:01:16,997 --> 00:01:21,073 Riff Raff came on to the scene, a suburban white middle class man 24 00:01:21,073 --> 00:01:25,578 who almost ironically took on a Black-set and wore braids and gold teeth. 25 00:01:25,578 --> 00:01:29,373 And then James Franco took inspiration from Riff Raff for his role as an alien in Spring Breakers. 26 00:01:29,373 --> 00:01:34,211 Pop stars and icons adopted Black culture as a way of being edgy and gaining attention. 27 00:01:34,211 --> 00:01:38,918 In 2013, Miley Cyrus twerks and uses Black women as props, 28 00:01:38,918 --> 00:01:42,209 and in 2014, in one of her videos called This is How We Do, 29 00:01:42,209 --> 00:01:47,301 Katy Perry uses ebonics and hand gestures, eats watermelons while wearing cornrows 30 00:01:47,301 --> 00:01:51,304 before cutting inexplicably to a picture of Aretha Franklin. 31 00:01:55,270 --> 00:02:01,560 Soooo... as you can see cultural appropriation was rampant. 32 00:02:03,479 --> 00:02:07,959 Not only were white people becoming rappers but they were excelling in the world of hip hop. 33 00:02:07,959 --> 00:02:09,865 Macklemore and Ryan Lewis' song Thrift Shop 34 00:02:09,865 --> 00:02:13,335 garnered a number one spot on Billboard's year end chart for 2013, 35 00:02:13,335 --> 00:02:16,275 and then Iggy Azalea's song Fancy reached number one the following year. 36 00:02:16,275 --> 00:02:19,525 And in May 2014, Forbes released an article titled 37 00:02:19,525 --> 00:02:24,675 "Hip Hop's unlikely new star, a white blonde Australian woman." 38 00:02:26,236 --> 00:02:31,153 But at the same time, police brutality against Black people came to the forefront. 39 00:02:31,153 --> 00:02:33,407 In an incredible movement ignited by the murders of 40 00:02:33,407 --> 00:02:36,986 Trayvon Martin, Michael Brown, Tamir Rice, Eric Graner and many others, 41 00:02:36,986 --> 00:02:41,814 people began to protest institutionalized racism by marching and by using social media. 42 00:02:41,814 --> 00:02:47,897 Celebrities spread awareness and shared condolences, or at least some did, 43 00:02:47,897 --> 00:02:52,118 as Azealia Banks, a Black female rapper, pointed out. 44 00:02:52,118 --> 00:02:54,200 As Azealia Banks observed in her tweets, 45 00:02:54,200 --> 00:02:58,303 white musicians who partook in hip hop culture and adopted Blackness 46 00:02:58,303 --> 00:02:59,799 -Iggy Azalea in particular- 47 00:02:59,799 --> 00:03:03,570 failed to speak on the racism that comes along with Black identity. 48 00:03:03,570 --> 00:03:08,425 Banks & Azalia feuded on Twitter until Banks participated interview on New Yorks Hot 97. 49 00:03:08,425 --> 00:03:09,985 [Azealia Amanda Banks] I have a problem 50 00:03:09,985 --> 00:03:12,872 when youre trying to like say that it's hip hop, 51 00:03:12,872 --> 00:03:15,767 and youre trying to like put it like up against black culture. 52 00:03:15,767 --> 00:03:18,723 It's like cultural smudging, is what I see. 53 00:03:18,723 --> 00:03:20,184 All it says to white kids is like, 54 00:03:20,184 --> 00:03:23,349 'Oh yeah, you're great, you're amazing, you can do whatever you put your mind to.' 55 00:03:23,349 --> 00:03:24,654 And it says to black kids, 56 00:03:24,654 --> 00:03:28,230 'You don't have shit, you don't own shit, not even shit you've created for yourself.' 57 00:03:28,230 --> 00:03:29,539 And it makes me upset." 58 00:03:29,539 --> 00:03:33,150 [Amandla Stenberg] That itself is what is so complicated when it comes to Black culture. 59 00:03:33,150 --> 00:03:35,751 I mean the line between cultural appropriation and cultural exchange 60 00:03:35,751 --> 00:03:37,707 is always going to be blurred, but here is the thing: 61 00:03:37,707 --> 00:03:42,820 Appropriation occurs when a style leads to racist generalizations or stereotypes 62 00:03:42,820 --> 00:03:44,218 where it originated 63 00:03:44,218 --> 00:03:50,171 but is deemed as high fashion, cool or funny when the privileged take it for themselves. 64 00:03:50,171 --> 00:03:51,752 Appropriation occurs when the appropriator 65 00:03:51,752 --> 00:03:55,331 is not aware of the deep significance of the culture they are partaking in. 66 00:03:55,331 --> 00:03:58,350 Hip hop stems from a black struggle, it stems from jazz and blues, 67 00:03:58,350 --> 00:04:03,418 styles of music which African-Americans created to retain humanity in the face of adversity, 68 00:04:03,418 --> 00:04:07,709 which itself stems from songs song used during slavery to communicate and survive. 69 00:04:07,709 --> 00:04:13,129 On a smaller scale but in a similar vein, braids and cornrows are not merely stylistic. 70 00:04:13,129 --> 00:04:16,217 Theyre necessary in order to keep black hair neat. 71 00:04:16,217 --> 00:04:21,530 So Ive been seeing this question a lot on social media and I think it's really relevant: 72 00:04:21,530 --> 00:04:22,446 what would America be like 73 00:04:22,446 --> 00:04:25,265 if we loved black people as much as we love black culture?